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For
tourists like us, the "Red Centre" of Australia is the deserts around
Alice Springs to Uluru [Ayers Rock], some 285 miles southwest of Alice
by road. Our five-day visit in August was in the austral winter, and
the weather was cold and very windy. We saw very few birds or mammals,
but we did have Red Kangaroo Macropus rufus
in the early morning during the drive to Uluru. A few large males were
at roadside (one is above in the title shot), and we came upon a female
and joey while walking through some desert habitat (right).
The
mammal we hoped to see was Black-footed Rock Wallaby Petrogale
lateralis, which are said to sun themselves in the rocky talus at Simpsons
Gap in the late afternoon. We actually stopped by Simpsons Gap daily,
but I saw only one wallaby late one afternoon (below left) while Rita
missed it entirely. She must have been looking the other way (below
right). [Okay, okay . . . so that is a statue at the entrance station to Simpsons Gap.]
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As
it turned out, there is a spot in Alice Springs where you can feed
Black-footed Rock Wallabies out of your hand (right). It happens at 4 p.m. at Heavitree Gap Lodge, up against the rocky gap
on the south side of town. Here you pay $1 for a bag of rabbit
pellets, and you may even get three wallabies to share (see below).
Being
right among the wallaby colony also may permit a glimpse into their
family life, including wallaby sex and the results thereof — a mother
and joey at the waterhole. |
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Our final stop during the 2008 trip was one day/two nights in Tasmania.
It is a beautiful island with rugged mountains, rainforests, quaint old
towns, and road signs you'll find nowhere else — like this one (above)
featuring an Eastern Barred Bandicoot! We were hosted by my friend
Murray Lord and his parents, Bruce & Gillian, whose lovely home
overlooks Hobart's harbor. We saw a couple of mammals during the day,
like this Tasmanian Pademelon Thylogale billardierii (right) and a Red-necked (Bennett's) Wallaby Macropus rufogriseus, but most mammals observations were at night. Among those we succeeded in seeing: Eastern Barred Bandicoot Perameles gunnii (below).
During
our first night's walk with spotlights, in a little park at the local
Hobart waterworks, we tallied not only the bandicoot — which is now
endangered on mainland Australia and common only on Tasmania — but
spotted Common Brushtailed Possum Trichasurus vulpecula in the trees (below left) and Tasmanian Pademelon on the lawns (below right). We also saw one Tasmanian Bettong Bettongia gaimardii, now restricted to eastern Tasmania with mainland populations extinct, but I didn't get a photo. |
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On
our second night we spent several hours driving on back roads like this
one (above) through the Wielangta Forest and surrounding farmland,
hoping to see the Devil. The Tasmanian Devil Sarcophilus harrisii,
that is. It was a cold, rainy night and we did not see any. Murray
tells me, however, that a friend of his found one dead on the road in
this area the next weekend. So although the world population has
crashed with the spread of a facial-canker virus, there are still some
present in these woods. So we did a night drive with spotlights that
produced a nice tally of other marsupials: 38 Tasmanian Pademelons, 2
Tasmanian Bettongs, 2 Common
Brushtailed Possums, and four Eastern Quoll Dasyurus viverrinus — the latter a much-wanted coup! |
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At the Lords' home in Hobart, an unexpected variety of mammals visits
their backyard at night. These include Tasmanian Pademelon and Long-nosed Potoroo, a rabbit-sized hopping marsupial (above).
Perhaps most unusual was a midnight visit from the very rare golden morph
of Brushtailed Possum. The Lords have kept track of the genealogy of
these possums over the years. The one we saw (right & below) was
brought to their window by its golden mother several years ago. That
mother had been documented to bring babies born to matches with
normal-colored males and a golden male. The "golden child" does not
visit nightly, so we were very lucky to see it during our very short
visit. |
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