Best Civil War sites 11-20

#	Site	Comments	Photo	Visits
11	Hampton Roads / Mariners' Museum Newport News Virginia	The clash of the ironclads at Hampton Roads is among the Civil War's most compelling stories. The South converted the captured steamer Merrimack to the ironclad Virginia at the Norfolk naval yard. On 8 Mar 1862, she sank two large wooden gunships. The next day the Union's innovative gunboat Monitor arrived, sparking the world's first battle between ironclads. The fight was indecisive as between them, but the Monitor saved the Union fleet. The Virginia withdrew and was later blown up by the South when they abandoned Norfolk on 9 May 1862. The Monitor was lost in a gale off Cape Hatteras on 31 Dec 1862. The wreck of the Monitor was discovered in 1973; the anchor recovered in 1983; and the turret and a gun in 2002. Preservation is underway at the Mariners' Museum in Newport News, where a turret gun can be seen, visitors can walk the deck of a full-scale Monitor replica, and experience interactive exhibits. There are many artifacts to see, and hallway walls are lined with period art of the battle. The actual site of the clash can be seen while driving the Hampton Roads bridge tunnel (Interstate 664), or by boat.	An original turret gun from the U.S. Monitor, recovered from the Atlantic shipwreck in 2002, lies in a preserving solution at the Maritime Museum, while a dramatic 360° recreation of the "Battle of the Ironclads" is featured in the battle theater (June 2009)	June 2009
12	Ford's Theatre Ford's Theatre National Historic Site, Lincoln Museum, and House where Lincoln Died Washington D.C.	On the night of 14 April 1865, just five days after Lee's surrender at Appomattox, actor John Wilkes Booth shot President Abraham Lincoln at Ford's Theatre during a performance of Our American Cousin. The unconscious Lincoln was taken across the street to an upstairs bedroom in the Peterson home, where he died early the next morning. It was the tragic coda to America's monumental conflict. Ford's Theatre, purchased by the federal government in 1866, is still used for theatrical productions, but Lincoln's box remains preserved as it was that fateful day, as is the Peterson house (House where Lincoln Died) across the street. An excellent Lincoln Museum is in the theatre basement. During our most recent visit (June 2009) the theatre and museum were undergoing renovations, so we must visit again to see the current interpretation. The site is a powerful and poignant one to visit.	Ford's Theatre at 511 10th St., Washington, D.C. (June 2009)	June 1967, Aug 1997, June 2009
13	Museum of the Confederacy & Confederate White House Richmond Virginia	The Museum of the Confederacy at 1201 E. Clay Street, Richmond, Virginia, is right next door to the Confederate White House. Jefferson Davis and his family resided there during the Civil War. The Museum is spectacular, and each time I've visited it has taken at least a half-day to view all the exhibits which cover the entire war. The exhibits are superb and include many rare and evocative artifacts. One must take a tour of the Confederate White House (shown at right in a photo from the Internet) – it is lavishly decorated in Victorian furnishings and very interesting. Given his dyspepsia (an old name for acid reflux), he and wife Varina slept in a specially-made bed with a 45° upward angle at the head. They had six children here (two born during the war). Although not a battlefield, this is the best museum in existence focused on the Civil War, and is remarkably even-handed in its interpretation. Having the Confederate White House next door just adds to the luster of this historic site.		June 1967, Sep 1985, Dec 1994
14	Petersburg National Battlefield Virginia historic photo of Battery 8, Dimmock Line, on Petersburg battlefield	Petersburg National Battlefield preserves a campaign, not a single battle. When Gen. U.S. Grant moved south in spring 1984, he was met by Gen. R.E. Lee in numerous battles discussed separately in this project (e.g., The Wilderness, Spotsylvania, Cold Harbor). Blocked from taking Richmond frontally, Grant chose to bypass it and conduct a siege at Petersburg, cutting Richmond's supply line to the south. The siege took almost a year -- June 1864 to late March 1865 -- but did end the war. Important clashes during the siege included the Battle of the Crater (following the dramatic exploding of an underground mine below rebel lines on 30 July 1864) and Ft. Stedman (24 Mar 1865). The tour route takes the visitor along the siege lines; alas, time has softened the landscape and, for example, "The Crater" now looks like a mild depression. During the summer, "Living History" exhibits often enliven visits; we certainly were entranced by the enactment of a Confederate cannon team during an August 1997 visit. In addition, the Civil War Trust has been acquiring additional land, and I suspect future visits will be improved by new interpretation and new sites.	"Living History" at Ft. Stedman, Petersburg Battlefield, as re-enactors load and shoot a cannon as a Confederate battery team (Aug 1997)	June 1967, Aug 1997
15	Wilsons Creek Wilsons Creek National Battlefield Missouri	In 1861, Confederate efforts to hold Missouri were supported by State Gov. Jackson and Gens. McCullough and Price. Union Gen. Nathaniel Lyon decided to attack combined Confederate forces camped at Wilsons Creek in sw. Missouri. He planned a complicated assault that included an attack on the Confederate rear by Gen. Franz Sigel. It was a daring plan but much too complex for Union forces at this early stage of the war. They were routed by rebel counter-attacks, and Gen. Lyon killed on Oak Hill ("Bloody Hill") during the 10 Aug 1861 battle. The North would not gain control of Missouri until the Battle of Pea Ridge in March 1862. The battlefield is wonderfully preserved as it was in 1861, in the "new style" without many rows of cannon or monuments (except at the site of Lyon's death). The visitor center's interpretive large-scale map of the battle strategy is excellent, and the tour route through this large battlefield site is impressive for its feel for the landscape.	Wilsons Creek meanders through the rolling foothills of southwestern Missouri within the preserved battlefield (March 1997)	Mar 1997
16	Fort Donelson National Battlefield Tennessee	U.S. Grant's campaign to capture Tennessee in early 1862 was the Union's first huge success. First, a combined river-boat & army operation captured Ft. Henry on the Tennessee River on 6 Feb 1862 [the site is today under a reservoir]. Then Grant marched overland and invested Ft. Donelson on the Cumberland 12-16 Feb 1862. A rebel break-out attempt was badly bungled, two southern generals slipped away at night (Floyd & Pillow), leaving it to Grant's old friend Simon Buckner to surrender the garrison. Grant answered Buckner's request for terms with his famous "unconditional surrender" message, and captured 8000 rebel soldiers. This battlefield and the parapets of the fort are well-maintained, and there is a spectacular view over the Cumberland River. The Dover Hotel where the surrender took place is preserved as a separate site.	View of the Cumberland River from Confederate battery at Ft. Donelson (Dec 2002)	Dec 2002
17	Stones River (Murfreesboro) Stones River National Battlefield Tennessee	After the southern loss at Perryville in Oct 1862, Confederate Gen. Braxton Bragg withdrew south to Murfreesboro. The Union Army of the Cumberland, under Gen. W.E. Rosecrans (replacing Buell), followed. By the last month of 1862, the two armies faced each other across Stones River. Both commanders had the same plan of attack for the morning: feint with their right and attack with their left. In executing these maneuvers, the armies were still positioned facing each other at day's end, after incredible and heroic fighting, but at a 90° angle from where they had started. Bragg tried another attack on 2 Jan 1863, but it also failed; Bragg withdrew to Chattanooga. There is debate as to which side "won" the battle, but strategically it was a great Northern victory. The battlefield road winds through thick cedars and the critical points are nicely preserved. Unfortunately, the battlefield was created much too small in size and urban shopping malls and car dealerships confront the visitor at the edges, detracting from the visit.	Blooming redbuds brighten a forest at the center of Stones River battlefield (Mar 1997)	June 1967, Mar 1997
18	Seven Days Battle Richmond National Battlefield, plus Fair Oaks Virginia sign for Malvern Hill battlefield, the final day of the Seven Days	The Seven Days Battle was the culmination of Gen. George McClellan's effort to capture Richmond during his Peninsular Campaign in June 1862. Robert E. Lee took over from the injured "Joe" Johnston after Fair Oaks (Seven Pines), and attacked McClellan's army from 25 June-1 July, pushing the Yankees back from Richmond and to eventual withdrawal. The sites are interpreted within Richmond National Battlefield, with varying degrees of success. depending on land preservation. "Living History" helps enliven visits in summer: Fair Oaks: a cemetery is now among the suburbs [not actually part of the "Seven Days"] with more land recently acquired Mechanicsville: little to see beyond roadside signs Beaver Dam Creek: nice small battlefield Gaines Mill: large important battle, good-sized battlefield Frasers Farm, Savage Station & White Oak Swamp: a few road signs on prior visit, but more land was been saved since then Malvern Hill: the site of main Confederate charge is preserved This situation has been changing with the Civil War Trust's acquisition of a lot of battlefield land here. I hope much of it will be open and interpreted by the next time I get back to Richmond. A substantial acquisition at Gaines Mill should surely be intepreted by now.	An old-style sign marks a site on the Mechanicsville battlefield, the first of the Seven Days' Battle (Aug 1997)	June 1967, Aug 1997
19	First Manassas (First Bull Run) Manassas National Battlefield Virginia	It is hard enough to preserve and interpret a 150+ year old battlefield for the public; it is almost impossible to interpret two 150-year old battles that were fought on essentially the same spot. It is inevitable that only one battle can be properly highlighted -- and the Park Service has chosen to emphasize First Manassas, on 21 July 1861, over Second Manassas in August 1862. At First Manassas ~ 60,000 men were involved (32K Confederate, 28K Union) which is less than half the ~124,000 soldiers engaged in Second Manassas. Yet, First Manassas it is much better known to the general public, and was the first major Civil War battle in the East. Many civilians came to watch the fight on that sunny July day in 1861. "Stonewall" Jackson got his moniker here. First Manassas swirled around Henry Hill, and here the battle is very well-interpreted with a well-preserved Henry House, a statue of Thomas J. Jackson, and good walking trails. But alas, the rest of the battlefield is broken up into small pieces, as modern and very busy roads bisect the site. Heavy traffic often interferes with battlefield visits.	T.J. "Stonewall" Jackson statue looks towards the Henry House on Henry Hill, First Manassas (June 2009)	June 1967, Sep 1985, June 2009
20	Mill Springs (Fishing Creek or Logan's Crossroads) Mill Springs National Monument Kentucky	The battle of Mill Springs, on 19 January 1862, had a much greater impact than usual for a small battle (just ~10,000 men involved, 4.4K Union, 5.9K Confederate). This was because it was the first Union victory after the debacle at First Manassas. It ensured that Kentucky would stay with the Union. Abraham Lincoln had said in 1861 that “I think to lose Kentucky is nearly the same as to lose the whole game." Confederate troops led by Brig. Gen. Felix Zollicoffer attacked Union forces at dawn on a miserably wet day. Union troops had just been reinforced by forces under Brig. Gen. George Thomas, who took charge after a long, muddy march. In the poor visibility of rain and gunsmoke, Zollicoffer, on horseback, approached Union infranty, mistakenly believing they were Confederates firing on their own men. Zollicoffer was shot and killed. Demoralized, rebel forces were pushed to the Cumberland River by Union counter-attacks. I manage to get to eastern battlefields only every 5 years or so, but it was only after Congress created this National Monument that this site acquired land, and built a new and excellant visitor center. A driving tour was mapped on rural roads, and it was easy to follow the course of the battle all the way to Lake Cumberland (the river was dammed years ago). Our May visit was good for birds and butterflies.	A collage of the Monument's interpretive sign and the site where Gen Zollicoffer died under the top left oak (May 2024). Over the years local women placed flowers beneath "the Zollie tree" on the anniversary of hte battle. The original oak finally fell; the park service has re-planted an oak that is still growing today.	May 2024